Whitewater Boating in New Zealand

A quick reference guide to get you started.

1. The Country, the Weather and the Rivers
2. Bring, Buy or Rent
3. Travel and Accommodation
4. Classics
5. Helicopter Etiquette

The country, the weather and the rivers

New Zealand is small and steep. Our position puts us in the path of the westerly winds that circle the globe in the latitude 40's. This means we have a Maritime climate as opposed to a Continental climate. While summer is definitely warmer than winter, big storms happen regularly and it snows in the summer often. Getting to grips with reading weather maps is a key skill in helping you make the most of your time here. The most settled weather tends to be from January till March. This is also the height of tourism season. (See www.metvuw.com/satellite and www.metservice.co.nz.)

What this means for the boater is that, unlike California, snow melt is not the dominant factor in deciding what rivers are running optimally, but rainfall. Having said this, big snow years will mean good base flows in some areas, particularly the west cost of the South Island.

The South Island in particular has big mountains that are relatively young and mobile. This means mobile (read changeable and sieve-laden) river beds, filled with water that was only very recently snow. Treat these with enormous respect.

The boating in the North Island is centred around Rotorua/Taupo and the Rangitikei areas. The rivers tend to be warmer and more heavily frequented than those of the South Island and thereby give the illusion of being safer. This is merely an illusion.

Bring, Buy or Rent

Obviously it is great to have all your own boating gear. Somebody please tell this to the airlines. It has become increasingly difficult to travel with large items (thanks “W”) and anyone who has traveled with boats before will know what they are up against. If you can’t be bothered with it, there are plenty of options in NZ for renting and buying.

If you are looking to buy new here expect to spend around $2000NZD, If you go second hand expect to pay around $1000 - $1500. The Buy, Sell & Swap forum at www.rivers.org.nz is your best bet to start.

If you fly into Auckland your nearest and best option is Fergs Kayaks in Auckland.

If you fly into Christchurch, you can rent boats from the New Zealand Kayak School in Murchison, 3.5hrs away by car and the acknowledged centre of boating in the South Island. Mick Hopkinson will grill you on your skills and, if you pass the inquisition, will give you fantastic advice and do everything in his power to ensure you have the best and safest time possible.

Both these rental options put you in great places from which to begin your trip.

Travel and Accommodation

This is the easy part. If you don’t already have a local connection then get a taxi or shuttle from the airport to the nearest Backpackers. The thriving tourism industry in NZ means that almost every Backpackers has a notice board full of vans and cars for sale. Many of the vans will have been been converted for kiwi road tripping to some degree. This may mean they have a double bed in the back, complete with mattress and curtains, some may have cooking facilities and deck chairs, some may even come with racks.

The deal you strike is up to you, but expect to pay more for a van in Auckland than in Christchurch. Prices seem to range from $1500 to $5000NZD. Make sure the van is Warranted (Certificate of Roadworthiness) and Registered before you drive it away. Dealing with these later will only harsh your buzz. The “change of ownership” papers are easy to deal with.

For the record, Toyota Hiace Vans are the best. Nissan Homy and Caravan styles are pretty good also. The Mazda Bongo, is just that.

For those wanting to rent, there are now rental companies that have picked up on the “flashpacker” style of van and have emulated them. You run less mechanical risk with these vans than with buying one, but racks may be an issue.

More traditional Motor Homes are available but are a hassle to put boats on and are more expensive.

Free-camping seems to be the norm and is relatively easy and safe over most of the country. Avoid free-camping on the Desert Plateau in the North Island, as this is the car theft capital of the country.

Classic boater friendly campgrounds exist, the most well known being:

• River Valley Lodge on the Ranigitikei River near Taihape
• River View Motor Camp on the Buller River In Murchison
• Lake Mahinapua, 10 km south of Hokitika

Classics

In the North Island

The Kaituna, (Rotorua) is a beautiful gorge close to town with a shuttle you can easily walk. Great play and a 20 plus foot waterfall that commercial raft companies claim is Class 5. We know different. You can lap this thing for days and not get sick of it.

The Rangitikei (Taihape) is probably the best river run in the North Island. The trip builds and climaxes beautifully. It’s scenic and you finish at River Valley Lodge (beer, food and a regular supply of backpackers traveling on the notorious Kiwi Experience Bus). Spend a few days and get to know it. At high flows the major rapids run together and become very serious. There is a good raft company based at the Lodge, grill them for info. This is also the home of Bliss Stick Kayaks.

The Wairoa (Tauranga) is one of the few dam released rivers in the country. Release dates fall on weekends in the summer and it is always busy. Shuttles are easily organized from the take out. Short run, great boating, lots of rafts. The Wairoa Extreme Race in February is great to be part of. Release dates are available at www.rivers.org.nz/events/.

The South Island

Murchison is an amazing place to paddle. The grades are moderate but the variety and quality of whitewater is high. Changing flows mean different sections come in and out of favour and playspots appear and disappear, but there is always quality paddling to be found.

The New Zealand Kayak School will happily help with information when you visit and they are right in town. They have an excellent retail and outfitting shop as well.

Absolute classics are the Mangles after heavy rain, the Buller Earthquake section at low medium flows when the Lyall wave is on, and the Lower (Earthquake) Matakitaki section at any flow.

Queenstown, the adventure capital of the world, is full of the best (and worst) that adventure tourism has to offer. Brutal hangovers and classic boating are found here. The Roaring Meg section of the Kawerau River is great play on big water, the Nevis and the Waikaia Rivers are the two test pieces and the Nevis Bluff Rapid on the Kawerau is the grand daddy!

Hokitika, on the West Coast of the South Island is considered by many to be one of the best destination areas in the world. If you go surfing in town, you can look back to the mountains in the afternoon light and see an incredible array of drainages, all offering superb wilderness boating at a variety of levels. It is the home of Heli-boating.

The Helicopter will make access ridiculously easy. You will have some of the greatest paddling experiences of your life here. You can drink the water from the rivers. The whitewater is complex, challenging, epic. The locals are accommodating and the logistics are easy.

Heli-shuttles cost anywhere from $60 pp for an afternoon excursion on the Toaroha, to $130 pp for a big day out on the Arahura or the Whitcombe. Helicopter contacts are in the NZ Whitewater Guide Book, (Craig Potton Publishing). This can be purchased at any kayak store or through www.rivers.org.nz/nzww/.

The guidebook will be your primary resource when you are here. It is excellent and should live on your dashboard. Make sure you have the latest version as things change all the time. Be aware though, even the latest version will likely have out of date info in it.

Hot tips for “the Coast”

• The water is always cold.
• Always wear quality river shoes.
• Build yourself a boat harness. When it rains, do the walk-ins.
• Helicopters destroy your sense of perspective. Five minutes in the helicopter is roughly equivalent to one day of walking, without your boat! What looks like Class 2 will be Class 4.
• Whenever you get in a Helicopter, you should be anticipating an unexpected overnight and have the gear to deal with that. Spare food, a dry set of clothes, capacity to make fire and a boat harness.
• Know your team. Boat conservatively and safely.
• Don’t rush into it, “the Coast” takes time to reveal itself. Relax and let it happen.

Helicopter Etiquette

• Don’t be late for your pick up.
• Leave room for the machine to land.
• Wear all your paddling gear, make sure other gear is secure in your boat.
• No jumping jacks when the machine is running, carry boats and paddles low at your side.
• Tie your own boat on.
• Pay Cash!